Hello everyone, I'm going to try my hand at building a 40% Carden kit and so far is going great. I'll be posting pics and comments along the way. Any tips will be appreciated.

First I had to build a table witch I did during Fathers Day I guess I start with that. I wanted to build it so that I can move it around with ease so I built it 2 feet by 7 feet. I went to lowes and bought 8 feet long 1in by 3in precut pine. I had Lowes cut the MDF board for me to 2 feet by 7 feet. I used ultimate glue and finishing nails to put it together.

I'll start posting pics as soon as load them in the computer wish me luck with that.

Subscribed!

Good luck,,,,,,, I had that kit for ever and was never able to find the time to get started !

Well I have to resize the pictures before I can load them up here. I'm doing this on a Mac computer never done it before so it might be a while.

Thanks Mark.

A few random building tips / caveats:
Don't blow you nose with the same paper towel you just used wipe up excess ca . . .
Put down the # 11 knife blade BEFORE swiping at the mosquito buzzing around your ear . . .
Learn how to not blink for long periods of time . . . a fresh bottle of thin ca, when knocked over WILL splash a drop in your eye . . .
You won't find a speck of dust in the shop until you peal the backing off the biggest piece of monokote you need to use.
...more to follow.

Good luck with the build

Make sure all of the above is pre-approved by Mama before opening the package......have a good time pops

Thats great Ty, LOL, I do have to say I knocked over the bottle of thin CA and it landed on top of my right foot point first, Well thanks to my quick like ninja reflexes I grab it and in the proses I squeeze the bottle (Sounds Familiar Don't it) Well about a nano second later I saw smoke coming from the top of my sock MOTHER *#$%*@&$ I could not get the sock off fast enough. I did that last night, can't wait to see what comes next Loving it dough.

OK, as you guys can see I used some shoe racks to hold the pice of MDF flat, I check it with a level and to my surprise I didn't have to adjust them at all lucky I guess.

You guys can see the pencil marks so I can follow for the nails, you can see the glue as well.

You can see the clamps, OK just incase anyone wants to build one, I was using a wet rag to clean up the extra glue. DO NOT LAY THE WET RAG on the MDF it bubbles up, It has to be kept dry. After building the outside edges I started cutting to fit the braces. Once I completed all the braces I stager them so I could nail the braces from both sides, you will see that on the next few pics

And now I'm ready to start building but I have to go Have to feed the BABY and No is not my belly.

Primo I hope you are going to lift that table up some,, do in about 3 months you will be able to walk under your plane to clean it with your F'd up back,,

Boy that looks like it is going to be the heavest Carden I ever saw !!!!! Oh wait that's the building table !

Primo....when you are uploading pictures, press the "ENTER" button on your keyboard between each photo....this will make them appear below each other & not spread across the page.
Wayne

Yea Wayne don't like stuff spread out,,,, he wants it keep nice and tight !

Primo, it looks like you are building a lovely diaper changing table....


right?

I can change ten Babies at the same time. LOL

Ok No turning back now. As you guys can see I cut the plans in half, next laid down some wax paper A Must to protect the plans, Clamped a long pice of aluminum bar stock along the bottom of the Longeron fuse, then I squared the fuse side with a small square witch fits perfect in between the vertical trusses, from here I began to glue in all the vertical trusses while holding the square against them.

Is this better Wayne?

Posted By Primo Rivera on 24 Jun 2010 10:03
Is this better Wayne?

I am not Wayne but YES!

Once I completed all the vertical trusses I made a tool from scrap 3/8 square balsa to find the angles on the angle trusses, I saw this on a build thread by Walt I believe.

I came very close to building two right fuses, as you can see on the last pic I glued in the wing tube socket support and the stab, at this time I had to call our good friend Ty. I thought I may have made a mistake by gluing this parts in but not so. I will wait to install the other sockets supports till I start gluing the fuse sides to the motor box.

Got to take a brake takes me for ever to type, More to come

Posted By Kent Porter on 24 Jun 2010 10:16

Posted By Primo Rivera on 24 Jun 2010 10:03
Is this better Wayne?

I am not Wayne but YES!

OK but it looks like I did it again. I'l get better at it.

Hey Primo, this plane builds tail light so you may want to put your Rudder servos in the tail and go push pull instead of up front in the hatch area and going pull pull, if so you need to build a place for those servos. This needs to be done before standing the sides up and glueing them together. Also think about if you want a removable hatch in the tail section just infront of the tail wheel plate, if so plan that out also before you get to far.

Posted By Primo Rivera on 24 Jun 2010 10:03
Is this better Wayne?

Yes Primo....definitely better....you can still go in the previous page & place your cursor at the end of each photo link & press enter & it will re-locate the photos like this page...
It's looking good.
Wayne

Is this a 330 or a 300??? Looks like the wing tube holes are lower than usual.

This is the 300 kit he got from me,,,,,,,,, sure hope I gave him the 300 plans and not the 330 plans !!!!!!
Just kidding Primo you got the 300 plans.

BTW Primo it is OK to build two right sides that way it will not need any right thrust !

Posted By Mark Mcclellan on 24 Jun 2010 13:39
This is the 300 kit he got from me,,,,,,,,, sure hope I gave him the 300 plans and not the 330 plans !!!!!!
Just kidding Primo you got the 300 plans.

Man you got my attention there for a split second LOL

Ok mama and the Baby are sleeping so I can post some more of the work I've done.

While checking things out I found that the hole on the wing socket support are not in center of the plate. , the pictures will explain this better.

I'm glad to have seen this, it would have been a pain to level the sides of the fuse to the motor box.

Thanks Mark I am planning on installing the rudder servos in the tail, the hatch thing is also a good idea I was thinking of not but I will take your advise on it, it would make running the servo leads easier.

Ok, the next step for me was to glue the balsa sheets together for the fuse. Heres what I did.

I clamped the 8 feet long angle to the edge of the work table and I used the edge as a stop, I then used tape to pull the pieces together, on one end of the tape I would fold over on its self so that I would have something to grab to be able to pull it off, this will keep you from using your finger nail and digging on the balsa, I guess it would not matter if that side is to the inside, call me picky I guess.

Once I had the sheets done it was time to cut them, on the last pic you guys can see where I used one of the angle truss.

Before gluing the sheets to the fuse I removed the plans from the table and placed some wax paper to protect the table.

Now I need to trim the sheeting around the frame and work on how I'm going to mount the rudder servos. After that is finishing the motor box and get it ready for the fuse sides. I imagine that is the order to go on. I need to get a manual for this thing I'm just winging it for now.

Posted By Primo Rivera on 24 Jun 2010 9:51
I can change ten Babies at the same time. LOL

Holy crap!! Don't tell your wife!!

Posted By Primo Rivera on 24 Jun 2010 10:20
Once I completed all the vertical trusses I made a tool from scrap 3/8 square balsa to find the angles on the angle trusses, I saw this on a build thread by Walt I believe.

Yep.. it is a BBW thing.. very useful!! Keep up the great work.. at this pace, you should have it ready for Triple Tree!


Also, take Marks advise, build the hatch in the back

Ty & Primo...great tips...best laugh I've had in days. Looking forward to more tips so I'll be ready when/if I build my plane.The pictures and info is great Primo. Looks like it is coming along nicely.

dang primo is this what u going to use to kick my arse in advanced next year!

Posted By Kevin Garland on 24 Jun 2010 22:11
dang primo is this what u going to use to kick my arse in advanced next year!

Naaahhh! I already have something that will kick your arse now I'm one with the plane BABY. Going out tomorrow for some practice.

Well, I headed to the work shop.

Kicking KG arse should not be a difficult thing ...even for PRIMO...pops

Yea yea Pops it is easy to talk smack when you don't fly yourself,,,,,,,, you have all the stuff you need to get out to the field and start flying ! Brian could teach you a few things,,,,,,,, but then again it is hard to teach an OLD Dog new tricks ! ;-)

Yes Mark you are correct..This old dog is just to lazy...I wont lie about that...The brain wants to but the assets wont get in gear...pops

I hear ya ! Your not that old !

Dang Primo, I thought this was a build thread,,,,,,,,,, where have you been ?

NOT OLD>>>>LAZY

random build tips cont:
An attempt to save weight with a juice bottle fuel tank will reward you with additional weight savings when the foam disappears from you airplane.

Listening to too many armchair builders will not increase pick up time on all the little pieces when it goes KABOOM......Really fantastic job in building Primo..Truly a PRIMO JOB...POPS

Hey Ty the same thing can happen when you use one of those red aluminum up grade caps on your Du bro tank and it pops out in flight ! Those caps are great if you cut a 1/16 inch off the lip so the cap can let the stopper go a little deeper into the tank. That way it swells up inside the tank and can not pop out if it only swells up in the hole in the tank it will pop out sooner or latter. Measure the distance on that cheep plastic cap that came with the tank and then check that aluminum one and you will see the problem.

Posted By Mark Mcclellan on 25 Jun 2010 14:42
Dang Primo, I thought this was a build thread,,,,,,,,,, where have you been ?

Changing diapers and trying to get some sleep. JK I'll be posting tonight some

OK, this is what I did for the rudder servos, I just took meassurements from a JR 8711 servo and build a box using one of the vertical trusses as support, glued it in place with 3M DP-460 Epoxy.

After that I trim off the sheeting, what I did here was using the 8 foot alminum angle just past the top and lower Longeron, I used this as a guide to cut the sheeting.

After cutting I took the fuse sides outside and sanded the sheeting flush with the frame. From here I used a pice of wax paper to outline the radius of the hard point for the leading edge of the stab and that's where I realised that I had made a mistake DAM!!!! I want to use two hard points on the root of the stab, I think you guys know what I mean by that, Well during the build I was suppost to add a second hard point just bellow the stab tube and I got ahead of myself, O well I should be able to add the hard point with no problems.

What you see on the second picture there is a spray paint cap, I just marked two points on the hard point and just traced it with a pencil then went to town with my belt sander A MUST HAVE!!!!. Now on the third picture you can see my mistake DAM again!!!!! I think what I'm going to do is use a dremel and cut a area at the bottom of the stab support brace so that I can slide the hard point to place.

Hey Primo I was cleaning my shop and guess what I found,,,,,,, the instructions !!!!!! I'll scan them and e-mail them to you.

Instructions? He don't need no stinking instructions.

Sent e-mail to you at work. You should be able to print it.

Thanks Mark,

Well I'm back at work so building is going to be slow from now, hope to at least work on it for an hour every day and that's if the baby is sleeping.

Good luck with that !

Hey guys I made some small progress so here it goes. I made some corner gussets out of 3/8 aircraft ply and glued them in place, this are the hardpoints for the hatch.

You can see here where I made a template from a pice of balsa to help me locate the second hard point just below the satb tube, I will also use it to make the stab end cap.

I could not help myself I had to just fit one side of the fuse to the motor box, I call this visual progress. Man I'm having a blast building this thing.

Oh I don't have any pics on building the box but when I get ready to glue the fuse sides I'll take time to explain how I did it.

A kiss to you guys from Baby Adrain

Kool !!!!

You can sure tell that's Jacobs bother! Handsome!

Its a good thing he does not look like Primo. LOL

Posted By josh bunn on 02 Jul 2010 14:40
Its a good thing he does not look like Primo. LOL

Yea no kidding!!!LOL

looking good primo.

never saw your answer about the wing tube sockets not lining up.

what are you doing about this?

tony

Thanks Tony,

All I had to do with that was just turn one over, the holes are not in center. I'll be posting some pics today.

Ok guys slow go but I got some things done last night, and it looks like the next step is to square the fues sides to the engine box and make sure the wing tube and stab tube are level and square to each other.

The engine box was so easy to put together, the way Mark design it is idiot proof. I had it all put together without any clamps just to check it and it was dead square verticaly and horizontaly.

On the pics you are going to see the Hysol glue that I use to reinforce the areas where the wood is not touching each other, I highly recomend this stuff. OK enough typing.

The 9462 take 24hours to cure
The E20NS just 20 minutes to set

DAM out of wax paper


NOTE TO SELF !!!! Next trip to Wall Mart Wax paper 12pack of Coronas actually 2 12packs

Well I managed to have just enough wax paper to be able to set the engine box over the plans and located in place using a clamp to keep it from moving around and a battery on the landing gear plate to hold it flat against the table. Next was glue the F2 formers in place, a perfect fit.

Interesting choice of epoxy for gap filler. The E020NS is good stuff, you just don’t see that in your local hobby shop.

What did you use for bonding the wood joints around the motor box?

You can get it thru McMaster, and yes this stuff is very strong. I used 3M Scotch-Weld Epoxy DP46.

Another industrial epoxy. hum?

I am totally impressed with your decision to use industrial epoxy.

I have used Vantico Araldite. This stuff is very resistant to gasoline.

Looking good Primo !!!! Sure is good to see that kit getting glued together ! I kept saying I was going to do that but never got around to it !

ok primo, you had the weekend.

where are the new pics??

tony

He took Terry out to the flying field where he talked Terry into Crashing his Carden !!!! Its the Roller Baby !!!!! Terry always remember this rule when your palne is upside down,,,,,,,,,, down is up and up is expensive !!!!!!!!!!!!! Terry sorry to hear about your plane !

Posted By Tony Gorgone on 12 Jul 2010 23:38
ok primo, you had the weekend.

where are the new pics??

tony

this from someone who took 3 1/2 years to not get the tape off the boxes of his kit.

He got you there Tony!!!!!

OK little progress but at least I’m working on it. Well I thought I was ready to start gluing the fuse sides to the motor box but I don’t have the hard points in place for the wings so I had to back up a little. The hard points are not 3/8 thick like the vertical trusses but you have the option to make some, I had some aircraft grade 1/8in ply so I cut some spacers to make up the difference. I will epoxy them together. At this time I’m going to wait to glue them in place until I get ready to set the incidence, later on the build I will explain how I’m doing that much later. I’ll have to say those of you who pay to have this planes done are getting your money’s worth, I use to think man that is expensive the price of the kit, yeah right? Well now I know LOL Don’t get me wrong I’m not complaining I’m loving it and I will build another one.