I'm starting a build of the new 124" Carden Pro and I'm going to post my progress here so ya'll can keep up with it.

After sanding the seam off of the pants then I glued the light ply plates in. While that glue (epoxy) drys i'll start to build motorbox.

The extra pants is a good idea, that way you can drop some off in a corn field.

Well there not extra, notice the one blue one is missing the mate to it.

what are your plans for the exhaust mark?

and how many servos for each surface?

tony

Mark, you've lost a lot of weight since I saw you last!! Is this plane going to have a DA 150 or 170?

Bobby

mark, i thought the motorbox of the 124" extended farther back so the fuel tank could be centered on the cg??

it looks like the same distance behind the wingtube as the standard 118" motorbox.

tony

No I have not lost ant weight,,,,,,,, I sure need to ! Yes this box dose go farther back past the wing tube I'll show that latter.

It is going to have the DA-150 that I was getting measurements off of. I believe that is all it needs. I just need to figure out which ex. system I want to buy.

Notice before I mix epoxy I always wet out a couple shop rags with alcohol to clean up the glue as I go. It takes longer to post pictures that it dose to build, this was done last night but it took me till now to get all this posted now i'm going out to breakfast and i'll do some more as soon as I get back, but I'm going flying this afternoon !!!!!

Looks good Mark. That epoxy looks white, what kind is it?

Bobby

Its Great Planes 30 min.

Motorbox finished now time to go flying !

I'll most likely get back to the wheel pants tomorrow and see if I can get those painted this week so I can get a set on my 118 Carden for the contest this weekend at Camden. Then after those are done I'll start building sides.

Thanks Mark.

Bobby

She's looking good Mark.... Great photos...
Wayne M

are you thinking about tuned pipes mark?

re3s or ks 1090s??

tony

I was thinking about 1090's but have not ordered anything yet.

wayne sure is raving about them on his extreme flight.

are you thinking about a 2 blade or 3 blade?

tony

I went yesterday afternoon to see Matt and bought the 1090's and flex headders he had so that is what i'm planning on using in this plane,,,,,,,, I plan on using the 30x12 Mejlik prop that I have been running but I'll have to fly it and see how it flies with different props before I can say for sure.

are there cutouts on the motorbox top plate for two ignition modules for those using a da200?

thanks
tony

The way Kurt did it was to put them on top of each other and both of them under the top plate,,,,,,, you could put one under the top plate and the other under the top plate just below the other. That way your plug wires would reach. I will not have that problem unless DA wants to send me a free 200,,,,,,,,,, and i'm not looking for that to happen !

any way to check and see if the motorbox for the 124" would accept 4 re2 pipes?

tony

Can you give me the size (dia.) and length of those pipes?

When I get home I'll post the size of the tunnel.

Looks terrible Mark. I think you might as well box it all up and send it to me.

here you go mark.

Art. Total length Ø Inlet Ø Outlet Ø Tuned Pipe Weight
RE 2 720 mm 25 mm 15 mm 54 mm 250 g

tony

OK so how big around are they ?

54mm

Posted By Mark Mcclellan on 21 Sep 2010 7:23
OK so how big around are they ?

LOL... I hear ya.. I read all that stuff and thought the same thing...

"OK, that is all good...but how big are they?"

In common redneck that would be about 1 1/8 inches.

You sure?
How about 2 1/8 inches!

Posted By james taylor on 21 Sep 2010 10:51
You sure?
How about 2 1/8 inches!

Is there a difference?

Aw shucks. Yep, 2 1/8

Thanks, i'll get back to this build as soon as I get caught up on all this RD stuff ! I just got the Camden results sent into Roy, now I have to go through the Fl. results so they can be sent in, also I have just changed the ARD for SC from David to Primo. Also be watching the web site for the report on the Clover Creek contest that Gil just finished and sent in. Boy Curtis you don't know what you have gotten yourself into !

I don't know what you are talking about!

No but you will soon enough ! BTW i'll be here to help you out all I can !

Posted By Jerry Hailey on 21 Sep 2010 8:37
In common redneck that would be about 1 1/8 inches.

NeckCar better start double checking those RCR engines really carefully!

These are a couple pic's of the back of the tunnel on the motorbox. The opening is 7 inches wide and 3 5/16 tall, the over all tunnel at that spot is 7 3/4 x 4 1/16,,,,,, in other words there is a 3/8 frame all the way around that could be ground away in an area to clear a pipe if needed.

Posted By tl3 on 21 Sep 2010 16:08

Posted By Jerry Hailey on 21 Sep 2010 8:37
In common redneck that would be about 1 1/8 inches.

NeckCar better start double checking those RCR engines really carefully!

Yep.

hhhhhmmmmmmmmmm

4 re2s or 2 ks95s????

decsions decsions!!!

tony

Mark, are you doing anything special to the airframe considering you are using pipes in the area of exhaust exit out the bottom of the frame. Using the 90mm header do you anticipate any heat problems with the foam in the rear portion of the fuse? Have you mapped the pipe location in relation the the foam? Why I ask is I will be starting a 124Pro tomorrow and do see a possible conflict with the rear portion to the fuse exit for the pipe application which I am also planning. You will get there with your build before me so I will be watching to see how you solve this potential problem.

Yes there will be a problem and I know I'll have to move those bottom diagonal braces up, not sure how i'm going to do that yet but i'll work it out when I get there. But it can be done.

Back to work on wheel pants

As you can see the 1st thing before sanding was to open a bottle of beer, then after the spotting puddy was dry I sanded it all down, then I measured to the middle of the opening and made a mark then put the wheel pant up to my angle plate and measured back to that mark then marked the others the same , then measured up about 13/16 and made a cross mark, then drilled a hole to clear a 1/4 bolt, then took some scrap 1/4 ply and sawed strips 1" x 10" long to make handles, drilled a 1/4 hole in one end and a 3/4 hole in the other and bolted them to inside of wheel pants. I can hold these while painting and hang them up to dry. After painting i'll cut slot where bolt head is so that area under the screw head dose not need paint anyway, finished beer and posted pics, tomorrow i'll prime and sand, add spotting puddy as needed and prime and sand and prime and sand until i'm happy that it is ready for paint.

Mark, what brand of spot putty do you use?

Bobby

Looks like Bud Light Lime......


OH, you asked about the putty...

sorry, I just focus on the important stuff

3M Acryl-Red Glazing Puddy is what is on the tube, something I have had for awhile. I bought it at the auto paint store here in town serval years ago. The paint Store is NAPA. It has a lacquer smell and dries fairly quick, if you put it on thin it can be sanded in about an hour, trying to sand it before that it will be dry on the surface but not all the way through and it will just make a mess.

Yea the Bud lite lime is some good stuff !

BTW, got an e-mail from Dennis yesterday saying he was finished cutting foam and was boxing kits and he was going to start shipping. So if you have one on order be on the look out for that big brown truck !

looks like 4 re2s will not fit.

so back to ks95s.

tony

Posted By Mark Mcclellan on 24 Sep 2010 7:32
BTW, got an e-mail from Dennis yesterday saying he was finished cutting foam and was boxing kits and he was going to start shipping. So if you have one on order be on the look out for that big brown truck !

I got mine yesterday, Looking forward to your pipe solution.

Mark

picking mine up tomorrow. My sides are done and sheeted, but not trimmed yet. F2's are mounted and ready. Layed out the RE3 pipe location on the plans. Looks tight, but I am going to try to install the pipes without raising the bottom trusses. Just means making a special hanger up into the fuselage I think. Going to try without a floor, just make sure there is good spacing for the electronics to the pipe and good air circulation through the fuselage. Thinking about 1/64" ply sheeting on the inside of the belly pan under the pipes where I do not cut openings to protect the foam. Sheet the inside like the "old days" on pattern plane wings. When I was on the "dark side" .

Ted

Ted post pictures of your build here also, I would love to see how your plane is coming along. If you don't know how to post pic's just e-mail them to me and i'll post them.
markmcclellan@charter.net

Rob when are you going to start your build ?

Hey I just noticed my post count is a higher # than my IMAC # !!!!!!!!!

Posted By Tony Gorgone on 24 Sep 2010 8:15
looks like 4 re2s will not fit.

so back to ks95s.

tony

Just as well, you can't afford what your builder would add to the cost for modifying, check that, custom building a motor box to accommodate four pipes.

Thanks for the descripton Mark.

Bobby

Posted By Mark Mcclellan on 24 Sep 2010 9:36
Ted post pictures of your build here also,

Thanks Mark, I didn't want to intrude on your thread but would be happy to share pictures. I will get a couple put together and see if I can figure out the way to post, haven't done that yet. It looks like just click attachments and browse to the pics. If I have trouble I will take you up on your offer

Ted

You may need to resize the pictures so they will up load. BTW feel free to post any pictures of your build I know I want to see them and I figure others do too.

Is there an optimum size Mark?

Ted

Posted By tl3 on 24 Sep 2010 11:31

Posted By Tony Gorgone on 24 Sep 2010 8:15
looks like 4 re2s will not fit.

so back to ks95s.

tony

Just as well, you can't afford what your builder would add to the cost for modifying, check that, custom building a motor box to accommodate four pipes.

yeah i know!!!

thats why i'm sticking with the cans. if the motorbox was taller, they might fit.

surprised no one has tried it with the 126".

tony

Posted By Mark Mcclellan on 24 Sep 2010 9:37
Rob when are you going to start your build ?

We have started, it is a joint effort between myself and Richard Brink. I buy the materials and do the engineering and Richard does the building. He has built 6 Cardens and this one will be #7. After reviewing the plans and not having the required parts in hand it is a guess as to whether the pipes will fit with out extensive mods. I am beginning to rethink the pipe-can deal as I have the cans but have not bought the pipes yet( the cost of the pipes is not a factor). I am flying the DA-170, 14" headers and the KS95v5 cans with a 29X12-3 prop in a 40% Carden Extra and the flight performance is excellent. If we can get the 124Pro to come in at 37lbs as Dennis recommends then I think the cans will work. The increased wing span(6") drag will be offset by the reduced drag with the thinner wing and since I believe it is a wash and assuming we can get the weight to come in a 37-38lbs with the DA-170 on cans it will be a much simpler and easier way to go.
The servo boxes are done and the wing and stab sheeting is being butt glued. Richard is holding of on the motor box construction till I make a decision on the power. I have not completely eliminated the DA-200 on cans. Right now I am trying to talk myself into the cans, you know how that goes. Decisions, decisions. I would like to hold off till you have gotten into that area but we must press on. I need to get a price on a 124 Pro fuse from Dennis in case we end up going the wrong way and need to build another fuse. Also I hate to buy a DA-200 when we know that a 240 is in the future. Based on my experience with the DA-120 I would buy the 240 in a heart beat!!!!!!!

Ted I resize to fit an 800 x 600 screen or Med. sized. and they work OK. Rob if I had a DA-170 I would most likely do what you are going to do, but I own 2 DA-150 and love them, they would most likely be fine on Cans, but I have never tried pipes and I'm going that way this time, I my hate myself for wanting to do that by the time I get done fitting them into this plane but that is what i'm going to do !

After shooting the 1st coat of primer NOW I can see the pin holes !!!!! Fill pin holes with spotting putty resand and shoot primer again !

Wet sand then tomorrow I'll shoot color wet sand again then shoot clear coat. After clear coat get hard then I'll cut out the slot to fit over the axle and drill and put in blind nuts then mount one set to my 118" Carden and set the other set to the side for this airplane.

Here are some pics of my build starting. I think I am going to try two 24 oz fuel tanks. They fit over the wing tube socket and have a low profile.

I router the sides of the 1/8" balsa sides to the longerons. That way I am sure the sides stay square and as straight as they where when I jigged the structure.

Posted By Mark Mcclellan on 24 Sep 2010 18:50
Ted I resize to fit an 800 x 600 screen or Med. sized. and they work OK. Rob if I had a DA-170 I would most likely do what you are going to do, but I own 2 DA-150 and love them, they would most likely be fine on Cans, but I have never tried pipes and I'm going that way this time, I my hate myself for wanting to do that by the time I get done fitting them into this plane but that is what i'm going to do !

The wheel pants are looking good, do you have a color scheme for the plane yet? I am leaning more and more to cans. Richard needs to know by Monday.

Posted By Ted Barrette on 24 Sep 2010 20:24
Here are some pics of my build starting. I think I am going to try two 24 oz fuel tanks. They fit over the wing tube socket and have a low profile.

I router the sides of the 1/8" balsa sides to the longerons. That way I am sure the sides stay square and as straight as they where when I jigged the structure.

Interesting, are you using both tanks for fuel because of the low profile and a central CG over the wing tube?

Hi Rob

My initial thought was to use two tanks like others have to see if I could center the tanks better over the wing tube. In my 40%'s it was worth it because the position of the CG between a 50 oz and the two smaller tanks wasn't worth the effort. Now with the londer engine box behind the wing tube with this kit the CG of two smaller tanks is pretty close to right on the centerline of the wing tube. The lower profile is a bonus. Means I don't have to weaken the structure of the canopy by cutting out clearance for the tanks.
I am trying to resist the temptation to lighten this kit. It should hit 38# as designed if I am careful with the glue.

Ted

i thought kurt was able to fit the 64oz tank over the wing tube on the prototype kit??

tony

Posted By Tony Gorgone on 25 Sep 2010 23:54
i thought kurt was able to fit the 64oz tank over the wing tube on the prototype kit??

tony

Tony, I believe you are correct. A corporate decision has been made: I will be using can's on the DA-170 instead of the pipes in the 124Pro.

RE-3's mounted. I have rigid headers and with the longer engine box and the support on the aft bulkhead I am wondering if I need a second support. Two supports increase the rigidity and will add more stress the headers.

Wow Looking good Ted !!!! I went to a fun fly Saturday and today we have rain so i'm back in the shop.

Base coat then clear coat ! Notice the 3 lazy dogs in the back ground !!!!!

Thanks Mark. Nice paint job. I will have a canopy, pants cuffs and cowl in couple of months

Mounted the engine servos this morning and linkages. Got to take a break and get caught up on some ISC stuff this afternoon. I want to dothe cutouts for the switches and the fueler next before I put the sides on. Maybe later today. Little cool (61 F) up here but no rain. Not a bad day to fly.

Now on to the axles and wheels. I hate wheel collars, those set screws strip out so it you ever get them tight then you can never get them back off if you don't get the tight they come loose and you wheel comes off during a landing busting your wheel pant up !!!!! Well I changed to a one piece clamp on shaft collar. McMaster Carr has them that fit 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4 shafts they are made of aluminum and have a socket head cap screw so you can tighten them and then latter still get them off. McMaster Carr part # is 6157K12 for the 1/4 size. Also I hate the store bought axles they bend to easy so I take a 1/4 bolt about 4" long and saw the head off, I make a 5/16 OD 1/4 ID bushing so this thing will fit the Landing gear.

Using old wheel pant to set wheel to center then mark axle and saw off extra. Now I have a tough axle with collars that work like they should !